The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Spaces

Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds gather.

This is perhaps the last place you expect to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round purplish grapes on a sprawling allotment sandwiched between a row of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just north of Bristol town centre.

"I've noticed people concealing illegal substances or other items in those bushes," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only local vintner. He has pulled together a informal group of cultivators who produce vintage from four hidden city grape gardens nestled in private yards and allotments throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to possess an formal title so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations.

Urban Wine Gardens Across the World

To date, the grower's plot is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which features better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of Paris's renowned Montmartre area and over three thousand vines overlooking and within the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the vanguard of a movement reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them all over the world, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens assist cities remain greener and ecologically varied. They preserve land from development by establishing permanent, yielding farming plots inside cities," explains the association's president.

Like all wines, those produced in urban areas are a product of the earth the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who tend the grapes. "Each vintage represents the beauty, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a urban center," adds the president.

Mystery Polish Variety

Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. If the rain comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast once more. "Here we have the mystery Polish grape," he says, as he cleans damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."

Group Efforts Across Bristol

Additional participants of the group are additionally making the most of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking the city's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of vintage from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from approximately fifty plants. "I love the aroma of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a basket of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the car windows on vacation."

Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has already endured three different owners," she explains. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can continue producing from this land."

Sloping Vineyards and Natural Winemaking

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has established more than 150 vines situated on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, indicating the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a city street."

Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple dark berries from rows of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can make interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can sell for upwards of ÂŁ7 a serving in the growing number of establishments focusing on low-processing vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually make quality, natural wine," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of making wine."

"When I tread the fruit, the various wild yeasts are released from the surfaces into the juice," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."

Challenging Conditions and Inventive Approaches

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has assembled his companions to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make French-style vintages in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole problem faced by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to erect a fence on

Brandon Davies
Brandon Davies

Lena is a certified personal trainer and nutritionist passionate about helping people achieve their health goals through sustainable habits.